Any info about cats?

Question

Im considering getting my 5 year old daughter a cat for Christmas.
Please share ANY info about cats.I have never owned one and know very little about them.
Are cats a lot of work or very time consuming?
Is it easy to train a cat to go in a litter box?
How often will it needs shots and how much will they cost?
Is it going to scratch up my furniture?
How much will it cost to have it fixed?...........................
........Well as you can see I know Nothing about cats any comments will be appriciated!
Thanks in advance!

Answer 1

Hi Lizze!



Since I'm young, I had 7 cats in my life, most of them in the Tabby family. I have 3 children and 2 cats now.

The yellow fur are often sweet cats, male or female. Also, there's the Persian cat that have a good character. Avoid Siamese for now. The Tabby's are good in characters but love to play more. Avoid males if possible.



It's easy to train cats to go to litter box. The Male' sent is stronger. For the female, if you don't want kittens, you'll have to sent it for the great operation. Depending of your location, the cost isn't too much.



As for the furniture, it depends of the character of the cat but also the master: never tolerate it! Simple. My 2 cats (a male and a female) know they must not scratch anything else except their toys.



For the shots, if you don't plan too let the cat going out without a least, it will be only necessary for the first 2 or 3. Some checkup if necessary. For prices, you can call a veterinary in your neighbourhood.



But the most important: it will be a nice gift to let discover this lovely animal to your daughter. It's more pleasures than problems, with some new responsibilities for the parents.

Answer 2

We adopted a cat 2 yrs. ago and are very glad we did. Cats are quite independent and don't require the same high level of attention as dogs do. This means that you can leave them (with plenty of food and water and a clean litter box) for a few days and they'll be fine.



Our cat got the main packet of vaccinations which cost about $220 (that included fecal matter check and general checkup). There are some shots that need to be given annually--it's best to consult with a vet about the specifics. And make sure that the vet uses the new adjuvant-free vaccines--they're the safest vaccines invented so far.



As for scratching the furniture, our cat has been front-declawed by her previous owners so she doesn't scratch anything but some people solve the problem by buying scratch posts and putting "Soft Caps" on the cat's nails.



Our cat goes to the bathroom outdoors but when she was ill and had to stay indoors for a month, we trained her to use the litter box. I actually took her to the litter box a few times and raked my fingers through the litter (that was an advice I read somewhere). After several tries, she finally started going there regularly. Now she's healthy, though, goes outside to the bathroom, and has gone completely off her litter box habit.



Good luck with the cat and bear in mind that you'd be doing the bigger share of the cat care. :)

Answer 3

Cats and cold Weather: http://www.cozycatfurniture.com/cat_newsletters/catnewsletter16.html

Be careful about what you feed a cat: http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=whyfishisdangerousforcats



Cats are pretty independent, but it will help if you get 2 littermates. Thet need to get neutered at about 6 months of age. They'll need one set of shots, when they are small (8 weeks?) and a rabies shot if they are going to spend time outdoors. Then you need to get a second set of shots on year 2. It should last you for many years. A lot of vets do not believe in giving shots every year, or even at all after the second year (except rabies).

The litterbox should not be a problem, as you should get your kitten(s) from a family (not a pet store) who has already litter trained them. If you get a cat from a pet shelter, make sure it has already had all its vaccinations and looks healthy. Make sure the cat is friendly and will let you pick him or her up. You should not get a difficult cat if you are not an experienced cat owner.

Keep the litter box very very clean. Ask people on here about cat food recommendations.

I highly recommend you never consider declawing your cats. It's really horrible.

Also, your daughter needs to be very gentle with a cat and not spend the whole day chasing it around. I have a granddaughter her age and she is fine with her cat.

I hope this helps and that you get lots of other good info from everyone.

Answer 4

Cats are probably the EASIEST pet to own -- which doesn't mean they don't require SOME work, but usually less than other types of pets.



First and foremost -- decide NOW that you will accept the cat the way she is. Don't think you can CHANGE her. If you don't like the way a cat behaves, don't get a cat. I realize you don't know much about cats, but there's plenty of time before Christmas to do some research. Talk to friends who have cats, talk to vets. Be SURE you want a cat before you bring one into your home. (This goes for ANY pet.)



Secondly -- and this might freak you out a bit -- I highly recommend getting TWO cats. Two cats are SO much fun and they are great company for each other when you aren't home.



OK, to answer your questions... Cats are not time consuming at all EXCEPT that they do need attention, playing, cuddling from you, as any animal would. Mother cats teach their kittens to use a litter box, so by the time you get a kitten, she should be house trained. As long as the litter box is where she can easily get to it -- and it's kept CLEAN -- she will use it. You will need to clean the litter box at least once a day. It only takes a few seconds, there's nothing to it.



Yes, she will need shots. Yes, she will need a vet when she gets sick. Most cats are very healthy but you still need to be prepared for the cost of vet care, just in case. If you keep your cats indoors, they will be MUCH healthier and live a LOT longer.



She will need to be fixed. How much it costs depends on where you live and where you get your cat. Expect to pay AT LEAST $100 and it might be more. But do have her (or him) fixed, no matter what. A fixed cat is MUCH healthier.



Yes, she WILL scratch your furniture. You can attempt to train her not to, you can (and should) provide scratching posts for her to use -- but no matter what, your furniture will get SOME scratching. If your furniture is more important that having a pet -- then don't get a cat. Although I'd LOVE to have beautiful, nice furniture, I decided long ago that living, breathing, loving animals are more important than my sofa. She will also climb your drapes and knock over your knick knacks...



Do not -- oh DO NOT!!! -- get her declawed. It is astonishingly painful for the cat and leaves her totally defenseless. It is a stupidly CRUEL thing to do. As I said, if your furniture is that important to you, then a cat isn't the right pet for you. I don't mean to sound atagonistic, I'm just trying to be truthful!



Do not get a kitten younger than 10 weeks old. Kittens should stay with their mothers until they are at least 10 weeks old.



As I said before, getting TWO kittens would be ideal.



Also, as I mentioned, keeping them INDOORS will greatly improve their lives -- please consider it.



Cats do not usually need baths. They keep themselves SO clean! But if you do want to wash her, just give her a bath with gentle shampoo. Be prepared for a huge battle and don't get angry if she scratches you -- it helps if there are TWO of you. Or you can send her to a professional groomer.



One last thing -- I don't know how old your daughter is, but PLEASE supervise her care of the pet and don't get a pet at all unless YOU are willing to take over the care -- kids are notorious for neglecting pets.



Cats are beautiful, wonderful, loving, playful, graceful pets. I personally have SIX cats! My house feels empty without a few cats. They are easy to take care of and VERY easy to LOVE!



I hope you do get a cat or two. Good luck!

Answer 5

Go to About.com on the web. In the search box type in, "getting your first cat". You will find just about everything you will need to know.

Never get a kitten under the age of 8 weeks as the mother is teaching them so much. Vaccinations cost will very greatly depending on where you live, as will spaying or neutering, which should always be done.Female cats are usually more independent and males more needy. Both can learn to spray but it is usually the male that does this. Cats should be kept indoors as the dangers of cars, dogs, other cats and diseases will shorten the cats life. Cats can live beyond 18 years of age so it's a long commitment, but a wonderful experience. Children should be taught to care and respect animals and your daughter is at the perfect age to begin.

Answer 6

I just wanted to add that if you want to get the cat declawed, you should find one that has already been declawed. Imagine the last knuckle in your finger closest to the nail...that's what they remove from the cat's paws.

You can train it not to scratch the furniture, by discouraging him or her with a squirt from a water bottle, and there are other more humane methods.

Some cats are more destructive than others so you never really know if they're going to tear things up until they start doing it, and if it's going to bother you enough to regret getting the cat than I'd suggest not getting one.





And they really don't need to be bathed unless they get into something nasty, but brushing them, especially a longer haired cat, will help keep them clean.

Answer 7

Cats have as many different personalities as do people. If you adopt an older cat, you can tell if they will be high strung or mellow, self sufficient or a people person. Shelters are good about that.



You will have to change the litter and scrub the box once a week, and you will have to scoop the box every morning or your house will smell. Cats are born with the instinct to use the box. Reasons they don't: they have to pee to mark over a scent they smell as threatening, or they don't like the condition of their box.



And all cats scratch, its a matter of what they choose to scratch. One of mine prefers the scratch post, the other prefers the loveseat.



All I can do is encourage you to get a year-old cat or older from the pound. They will tell you what kind of personality the animal has, bad habits it may have, and you'll be saving a life. Cats are only allowed 14 days in the shelter. Save a life and save you the sanity of surviving kittenhood. (Its the terrible 2's, amplified.)

Answer 8

Getting a pet is lifetime commitment. I hope that you are ready and prepared fot this decision. There are many things you need to know and it's really too much to write. Visit this website and you'll learn as go along. trust me, You are bound to make mistakes but you'll learn from them. Cats are amazing animals!



www.about.com then search cats, You'll get every info. Cat behaviour, mistakes first time cat owners make and all that.



Have fun! And let us know when you get one!

Answer 9

feed it twice a day. in the morning and the after noon. get it declawed and fixed. don't put a collar on it because if it runs away in a tree the collar will get suck and hang the cat. no it is not hard i have 4 cats and dogs. keep it in a room for two/three weeks to show where home is if a bed room keep closet doors shut. good luck!!! getting it fixed varies from vets.

Answer 10

No,Cats are not much work.

Yes,It is easy to train a cat to use the litter box.

Yes,it will scratch up your furniture unless you buy a scratching post. What’s Out There?

At the grocery store, you can find a range of commercial pet food products. Generic or house brands are the cheapest and are generally made from the poorest quality ingredients. These are never a good choice.



If you have no option other than the grocery store, stick with well-known name brands. Basic chows or ration-style canned foods usually contain fewer additives and fillers than those marketed as “gourmet” offerings. Usually sold in small cans or packages, these novelty foods are highly preserved, have lots of sugar and salt, and are the equivalent of human junk food.



PAWS recommends choosing a pet food sold at pet supply stores. Rather than meeting maximum or minimum standards, these premium foods aim for optimal nutrition. They are usually more expensive than grocery store brands, but they can save costs hidden in cheaper diets. Ideally, a pet eats less of the better food, digests more of it, and leaves less waste.



What’s in There?

No matter where you buy pet food, it is a good idea to read labels. Avoid brands that feature long lists of chemicals. Preservatives, colorings, artificial flavorings and scents are usually added in small amounts, but in combination, and over time, these chemicals can undermine your pet’s health.



Other common ingredients are labelled “meat-by-products.” These are slaughter house remnants and can include moldy, rancid or spoiled processed meats as well as diseased tissues. Whenever possible, buy brands that list the meat itself (beef, chicken, lamb, etc.), and not by-products.



Your Cat’s Needs

Cats need twice as much protein as dogs. Dry cat foods can be a good source of protein, but since many have a high concentration of some minerals (known collectively as ash), they can also contribute to Feline Urinary Syndrome (FUS). Look for low ash foods (magnesium no more than .08–.10% of content, and a calcium to phosphorus ration of 1.2:1). Avoid fish-based foods, especially tuna because it is high in ash and can lead to a Vitamin E deficiency in cats. Adult cats should be fed two separate meals each day.



One Food for a Lifetime?

Factors including age and general condition determine your pet’s nutritional requirements. Diets should be chosen to meet specific needs and maintain ideal weight. An animal of normal weight has ribs that, while not easily seen, can be felt without an upper layer of fat. Obesity is the most common nutritional disease in dogs and cats, prevails in older animals, and results in part from over-consumption of appealing commercial foods. It may take some time for your pet to develop a taste for a premium diet if he or she is accustomed to highly flavored commercial foods.



Disease can increase need for some nutrients while decreasing ability to absorb others, and activity levels and temperament provide clues to your pet’s metabolism. Diets should be chosen to meet specific needs and adjusted as those needs change.



Younger cats and dogs need to be fed more often than older ones, and meal sizes and frequency must be adjusted as the animal grows. Be persistent, and switch your pet to the new diet gradually. Establish appropriate feeding schedules, and stick to them.



Important Points

Buy the very best pet food your budget allows. Premium brands usually offer the best nutrition.

Avoid generic brands.

Stick to basic foods and avoid novelty products that have flavor “enhancers” and other additives.

Talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s specific needs. There are premium foods formulated for all stages of an animal’s life.

Set a feeding schedule that works for you and your pet, and be consistent. For cats, do not leave food out between scheduled feedings.

Provide your pet with fresh water at all times.

Do not give milk to your kitten or cat.

Proper Nutrition



What to Avoid

Avoid foods available in grocery stores. These foods tend to contain a lot of filler (corn and rice) which will create excess stool to pick up, may cause allergies and will have long-term side effects.

Answer 11

Hi Lizzie...here are some simple kitten/cat care guidelines to supplement everyone elses wonderful answers already offered:



1) Have fresh water easily accessible at all times changed daily. No milk as it causes bowel distresses because cats are lactose intolerant. http://www.cat-world.com.au/CatMilk.htm



2) Initially, kittens needs to be medically evaluated and vaccinated for feline diseases and dewormed for intestinal parasites which all cats are susceptible to getting. The following are the vaccinations:

Feline Panleukopenia Virus

Chlamydia, Feline Infectious Peritonitis, and Ringworm

Feline Calicivirus/Herpesvirus

Feline Leukemia Virus

More on feline vaccinations: http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/vaccinations.html

More on feline deworming: http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_roundworms_in_cats___kittens.html

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_tapeworm.html



Vaccinations are done yearly, however some vets will say only the first three years are necessary and every so many years thereafter. Costs vary depending on where you reside and the individual clinics.



2a) Cats benefit from spay/neuter just before they reach the age of sexual maturity (e.g. 5-7 months). Problems with unspayed/unneutered cats is they will urine spray, have a tendency to want to bolt and roam, get into cat fights, become pregnant, etc. Spay/neuter is relatively inexpensive (fees vary again depending on where you reside...usually it can be anywhere from $15-75, depending on gender as well) if done at a shelter. If you are located in the USA you can contact 1-800 SPAY USA http://spayusa.org to locate a nearby participating shelter to perform the procedure.

More on neutering: http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_neutering_the_male_cat.html

More on spaying: http://www.marvistavet.com/html/the_feline_spay.html



3) Kittens benefit from a diet strictly designed for them. Please absolutely no human foods as they contain ingredients which can be toxic to cats. Please see the following "sample" list of foods to avoid feeding a cat: http://www.peteducation.com:80/article.cfm?cls=0&cat=1276&articleid=1029

Dangers of feeding table scraps to cats: http://www.peteducation.com:80/article.cfm?cls=1&cat=1397&articleid=833



4) Kittens are very fragile so if there's any dramatic changes with their appetite, thirst, bathroom habits and general behaviour it truly requires a visit to the veterinary hospital. Diarrhoea in young kittens is the most dangerous as they can become seriously dehydrated quickly and die as a result. Intestinal parasites as well as sudden changes in diet can be the leading contributors to intestinal distress. When feeding cat food it's best to not suddenly change from one type of food to another rather gradually over time. Here's a chart on how to gradually make the switch: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?dept_id=0&aid=100



5) Cats ideally should be fed on a schedule rather than free fed to develop good eating habits as some cats/kittens are known to gorge their foods and overeat. Later in life this develops into cats who become overweight and is the leading cause for feline diabetes.

http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/news/feed.htm

http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/feedcats.html



6) It's important to kitten proof your home very well. Cats sometimes accidentally ingest things that can be fatal such as string-like objects or small toys. Supervision of string-like toys is highly recommended. Christmas tinsel, for example can be very deadly because when ingested it will twist off the intestinal tract and be fatal. For more on string and other household dangers to cats: http://www.cat-world.com.au/cat-worlddangers.htm



7) Cats live a safer and healthier life as an indoor pet rather than outdoors which leaves them open to moving cars, wild animals, dogs, cat fights with unvaccinated and diseased cats, mean people who don't like cats, etc. More on the dangers of cats who live outdoors:

http://www.cathelp-online.com/health/indooronly.php

http://www.runway.net/b/moonmaid/in-or-out.html

http://www.petplace.com/cats/outdoor-dangers/page1.aspx



8) Cats use a litter box to urinate and defecate. Ideally, a new cat should be kept in a small quiet room nearby their litter box for a few days (younger kittens a little longer as their bladders and bowels are small and hard for them to hold longer so accidents are likely to occur. Keeping the kitten/cat isolated in this room helps them to learn where the box is before venturing on out into the house. This also helps the kitten/cat learn that this room is always safe and quiet to do their business.



There are many types of litter available. Usually most people prefer Arm & Hammer scoopable. However, there are many environmentally friendly litters (e.g. Swheat Scoop, Yesterday News, Feline Pine, etc) now available which can be safer if the cat accidentally ingest when they groom themselves as they do not clump and solidify inside a cat's intestinal tract. It's best to always scoop daily to keep odours to a minimum. Some cats will refuse to use a soiled box so this is important to keep the box cleaned (scooped) daily. Location of the litter box is important...usually a private space is ideal. More on litter box tips: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/cat_behavior_tip_sheets/preventing_litter_box_problems.html



9) Kittens love to play. They love cardboard boxes and paper bags to hide in and attack. Most pet stores have kitten-safe toys and each cat has their personal favourites so you have to experiment which toy your kitten will fancy. Scratching posts are a must as all cats love to claw. The more the merrier. To encourage your kitten to claw the posts play with a toy nearby them and reward them with a food treat. Anytime your kittens claws inappropriately elsewhere gently pick them up and place them next to their scratching posts rather than scold them. It helps them learn that the scratching posts/toys are more fun to do this and learn that anywhere else is not gaining them any attention whatsoever.



Instructional video on how to trim a cat's nails: http://www.felinevideos.vet.cornell.edu/trimming_claws/full_movie.shtml



10) Cats are wonderful in grooming themselves and don't require bathing unlike dogs. Cats have small bristle-like hairs known as papillae on their tongue which distributes keratin a deodorant like substance which allows them to thoroughly clean their entire bodies. It's only when they get into something that is toxic to if there were to self groom that bathing would be then necessary. If you would like to supplement their grooming you can use babywipes.



Finally, here are a couple wonderful and helpful websites on how to best care for kittens and cats:

http://www.kittencare.com/

http://www.catchow.com/KittenCareCenterHome.aspx



Other helpful websites: http://placervillevet.com/kitten_care.htm