How OLD is your kitten going to be when you bring it home? A four week old kitten (really too young to be removed from the mother) needs much more care than a 12 week old kitten. When you get your kitten (from the 'original owner' I hope) as them how often and what brand of 'kitten food' they were feeding the kitten, then 'start it' on that ... if it's not a good, healthy brand name, then you may 'switch' kitten foods by putting 90% old food and 10% new food in for three days, then upping the new food another 10% every three or four days until it's getting ALL new food.
NEVER give a cat or kitten cream, milk or more than a 'lick or two' of ice cream. Cow's milk is not good for cats, and can give them diarrhea.
Your kitten will sleep 20 hours a day ... and you don't have to be with it when it is asleep ... and you may only 'keep an eye on it' when it's awake. Kittens are extremely curious, and yours may jump, climb or wiggle into 'bad places' it won't be able to escape from ... or, like mine did, get 'made up' into the bedding in a way that you can't 'see it' ... it's sleeping soundly for hours in the bedding, or in the linen closet, while you are hunting high and low, and wondering if it 'got out' and is lost.
Yes, a litter box can smell 'bad' ... but not if you give it a quick daily 'sifting' and take out the wastes, and totally replace the litter once or twice a week. Since you are getting a kitten, you may be able to use a 'low cardboard box' (like the boxes that are cut low to show 6-packs of soda) until it's 'tall enough and strong enough to jump into and out of a 'regular cat box. Not EVERYONE uses a plastic box ... some people buy turkey roasters, others want 'silver' metal, and some even just change the whole box (usually cardboard) that has been lined with plastic, every time they change the litter.
Kittens need and love to play ... but buy only one 'fur or flannel mouse' and tie a piece of 'crumpled paper' onto a long string (with you at the other end) at first. Also a good 'ball' with a bell inside' since kittens love 'noise' and balls ... but after awhile you will notice that your kitten plays more with one type of toy ... that should be the one you buy 'multiples of' and only one or two of the others. I've had cats that HATED any 'bought toy' but simply loved playing with a round flat gold circle (someone's earring that broke) tied to a string. I even kept it 'tied to a chair' because the cat always loved to 'bat it' when passing, even when I wasn't around to play with it.
Teach your cat 'good manners' from the very beginning ... if you don't want a 'full sized cat' on the couch, then don't let the kitten climb onto the couch. If you don't want it climbing the curtains, when you see it climbing them remove it immediately and say NO in a firm but low voice, the point it away from the curtains. You may even teach it to 'ask for food' or not ask for food ... that's up to you. Young cats are much easier to 'teach' than full grown cats, so decide now what you want your cat to 'do' when it's older, and 'teach it' the way you want it to be when it's adult.
One last thing ... I DO NOT BELIEVE IN OUTDOOR CATS, nor in INDOOR/OUTDOOR cats (balconies they can't get down from may be considered 'indoors' if you train them not to 'jump' from them) ... and NO CAT should EVER wear a collar or harness unless there is a leash and you are 'walking it' outside. Cats love to 'crawl through' very tight spaces, and they can 'catch' their collars on things that 'poke out' and can strangle themselves trying to escape or die because they can't be seen/heard/reached.
Get your cat 'fixed' and take it to the vet when it needs it. Get it's shots, and have it properly licensed. And last, even if yours is only going to be an 'indoor cat' get it a 'device' (the size of one grain of rice) that can be scanned and read, because if your cat DOES 'escape' at any time, that device may be the ONLY THING that can identify that cat as yours.